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Boxshot & Details
Battleship Craft
  • Developer: Phyzios, Inc.
  • Publisher: Phyzios, Inc.
  • Genre: Action
  • Release: May 29, 2012
  • ESRB: Not Set

Question & Answers

New update ruined my submarine!

After the last update I went to test my sub and it didn't work the same, it submerges about halfway then floats back up when it's at max power. I didn't change anything between the update. Does anyone know how to fix it or can somebody please give me new directions for a new sub?

J-Hawk, Jul 15, 2012
Answers (Closed)

Answer from: The-bunny
Try use heavy ballasts under your sub. Add some boilers to. My sub has 15 mid zize boilers. Sry for bad english.

Posted on: Jul 16, 2012

Answer from: Jesse deij
I had this too so i just placed more ballast in my sub and that works for me

Posted on: Jul 16, 2012

Answer from: Gibbo
With the new update boilers can no longer operate while submerged. The problem you are having is that your sub is relying on the extra power coming from the boiler. You will have to remove the boiler and add ballasts or 600mm(heavy) armor so that your sub can submerge under its own power. Note: the benefit of this update slows down subs to about 12 knots which is the approximate max speed of a submerged sub in real life. I hope this helps.

Posted on: Jul 16, 2012

Answer from: Sonic Afternoon
Just cover your boilers, my subs go 45-79

Posted on: Jul 16, 2012

Answer from: Jesse deij
Subs in real life can go faster than 12 knots a modern nucleair sub can reach speeds of about 40 km/h

Posted on: Jul 17, 2012

Answer from: Gibbo
We're talking World War 2 here not the modern day. If Battleship craft was made for the modern day we'd have diesel/nuclear engines and not boilers. German Uboats wouldnt go faster then 12 knots while submerged.

Posted on: Jul 17, 2012

Answer from: Jessedeij
The german type 21 submarine was made in WW2 and had a speed of about 31 km/h
This is what wikipedia says about the type 21 sub:

15.6 kn (28.9 km/h) (diesel)
17.9 kn (33.2 km/h) (electric)

17.2 kn (31.9 km/h) (electric)
6.1 kn (11.3 km/h) (silent running motors)

Posted on: Jul 18, 2012

Answer from: Cpt. Crazy Ivan
I have my sub maxing out at 28.5 knots with 5 slanted boilers. One more boiler or too much weight will slow it down. This seems to be the fastest I can make mine at the moment. My next one will be thinner and more hydrodynamic. Hopefully I'll get to 35/40 knots.

Posted on: Oct 12, 2012

Answer from: Admiral Awsome
The screws (propellers) cause the most drag of all the objects in the game. Often, they do more harm than good, and usually, adding more screws or boilers only slows you down. Step 1 ! First, check out the design of an already existing hull you can buy. Look specifically at the screws and rudder assembly. You should notice two long streamline stretches of hull that flank either side of the screw assembly. This is the key. These protect the screws from drag while allowing them to do their job (move the ship). In my attempt to build a fast torpedo boat, the top speed was only 56 knots in experimenting. Adding more gas turbines only made it slower, ditto with adding props and streamlining the hull did little. Then I added one of these screw gaurds and BAMM, the speed jumped to 123 knots. So, first, build Only 2 screws, any more will only cause drag (with the possible exception of huge ships). Next, try to fit the rudders under this guard as well to reduce their drag. Tipically, the longer the guard is, the faster the boat (but as the gaurds get longer, the speed increase gets exponentially smaller). As for subs in particular, speed is difficult to master. So far, I've had the same problem. I've perfected my sub a bit, and it now goes 20 knots at full throttle. Continued in part 2.

Part 2!!! Make sure your boilers are completely contained inside the hull, I don't think they even work when they are outside and underwater. Next, you need to reduce the drag caused by the "upward" facing screws. I have yet to experiment on ways to do this as I only discovered this information today. Perhaps gaurds similar to the ones found protecting the forward facing screws may provide the answer. Also try completely containing the up facing screws inside the hull (though I doubt they will even work if you do this. In any event, your submarine is unlikely to reach fantastic speeds, since their entire hull is submerged, they cause the most drag (even ruling out the drag from screws). In the end, you need about 6 to 16 up facing screws to make a sub dive, and while it may be possible to reduce their drag (as I said, I still have yet to experiment with that concept on subs) you can't make that drag go away completely. While I hope to reach 50 knots on a sub, I'd be happy with even 30. Subs just aren't made for speed (unless they eventually make actual ballast tanks people can use). Anyway, that's my 2 cents worth. Hope it was helpful!

Oh and ps, you may need to rebalance your sub. No biggie, I need to do it after every change. Little heavy ballast here, an extra screw or 2 there, good as new. If your sub dives at all, power isn't the problem, it's just slightly out of balance. It sounds like your bow is slightly more buoyant than the stern. Either that or your bow hydrodynamically tends to point up at faster speeds (due to angled pieces). This might actually be the problem. You dive at first at full throttle, then as speed increases, the bow tilts up and causes you to start ascending. One solution I tried (and works pretty well) was to build a pair of horizontal fins that jut out from the bow and are angled downward (the leading edge is a 1/2 ballast angled down and the trailing edge is a 1/2 ballast that is angled up, each fin juts out 3 blocks) this forces the bow down at higher speeds and is still historically accurate since ww2 subs did have bow planes. What you need is to make sure the sub dives perfectly level to the waters surface regardless of the speed, then calibrate the number of screws and screw positions (ideally so that full throttle=dive, half throttle=remain at current depth, and quarter throttle=ascend). This is a pain and can take hours, but is well worth the work. I also suggest using a pair of depth gauges (one at bow and another at stern) for good calibration.

Posted on: Jan 4, 2013
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